Modern Cosmetic Tattooing Techniques

When you hear talking about “permanent makeup” gives you shivers, you normally think about ugly and artificial eyebrows reminding of a geisha or your grandmother (sorry grandma), who had tattooed eyebrows on their twenties and now have two bluish colour lines in place. Today, the modern techniques of permanent makeup, also known as micropigmentation or cosmetic tattooing, have transformed the inconsistent results of the 1980s and 1990s into a subtler, natural look that should no longer gives shivers when you see or hear this name.

Most artists during the twentieth century used the same tattooing techniques to create both decorative tattoos and permanent makeup. The problem was, depositing pigments deep into the skin often created harsh-looking results that faded and turned fuzzy over time.

Over the past decade, permanent makeup artists have been perfecting an updated approach that combines reformulated pigments with finer needles and a superficial application technique to create a more natural-looking (and temporary) result. This is why today’s cosmetic tattooing is usually referred to as ‘semi-permanent makeup.’

Hyper realistic brows

The revolutionary Hair stroke technique with a 3-D effect

The hair stroke method is universally suitable for anyone, from those with minor fault to those without eyebrows. Small and very fine hairs are drawn using a digital machine with a high precision needle, and in combination with colour tones I create the optical illusion of hairs, giving a 3D effect and the impression of realistic brows. If it is done right, this can be almost imperceptible, only adding definition to your eyebrows. With this technique you can make a perfect illusion of hairs creating the eyebrows of your dreams. After a first session of 3,5 hours, preferably followed by a follow-up session of 2,5 hours, after 6 weeks, you can enjoy the Hyper realistic effect for approximately 2 to 3 years.

During years of experience and practice Thais perfected this technique further. “The eyebrows I create are not solid, like painted in pencil, nor have thick hairs. I design ultra-thin individual hairs with delicate features and in different shades of pigment to create a 3D effect that perfectly blend with your natural eyebrows. Honestly, you will be amazed at how realistic they will look!”

This is a specialised treatment that makes Thais Siera becoming increasingly known in the permanent makeup industry.

Who is best for?

  • For everyone who wants to have a perfect and natural eyebrows.
  • Those with sparse and patchy brows.
  • Ideal for total eyebrows loss due to Alopecia.
  • It is suitable for all skin types.

Who is not recommended for?

If you have a saturated pre-existing permanent make-up that is still very visible we recommend to do tattoo removal first. Dark, saturated pigments in the eyebrows leave no option for covering up with hairstrokes techniques. And lighter, non-saturated tattoo eyebrows require darker designs of the hairstrokes to be covered up.

(Ombre) Powder brows

Powder Brows is a semi-permanent makeup technique that creates a more defined and filled in powdery brow look. It looks like soft powder because pixelated dots are created using a digital machine with thin needle and a very fast hand’s movements. By Ombre Powder Brows, an ombre effect occurs when some areas are designed lighter than others, lighter at the beginning and darker in the middle and towards the tail, this is a nicely flowed over like an ombre color.

Who is best for?

  • If you fills in your brows regularly with pencil or shadow, because you like a more define look, similar of makeup but yet soft and natural.
  • It is also great if you need to cover up any previous bad work. But if the pre-existing permanent eyebrow has the beginning that still dark, then only Powder Brows without the ombre effect is the option for you, as the entire brow needs to be coloured with the same intensity to give a real makeup look.
  • This technique is suitable for all skin types.

What are the benefits of permanent eyebrows?

  • Semi-permanent treatments help to frame your face and often take years off!
  • Gives a more confident look.
  • Stays on all day and all night.
  • Saves you time in the morning for make-up application and at night there is less removal.
  • Usually lasts between 2-3 years.
  • Saves money on make-up purchases.
  • Allows you to enjoy smudge-free sports.
  • Look great before, during and after gym work-outs!
  • Fills in your eyebrows for a more complete look.
  • Reduces wear on your skin as there is less removal of make-up.

What factors will affect my semi-permanent cosmetics?

  • Oily Skin. Pigment will fade faster on oily skin. You will probably need yearly touch-up.
  • Smoking. Smokers may notice that their semi-permanent cosmetics will fade premature.
  • Anemia. If you have iron-deficiency, your body will absorb pigments quicker because many of them are iron-based.
  • Sun exposure. Exposure to UV rays can affect the rate at which these pigments are broken down, increasing the chances of fading towards red tones.
  • Age and metabolism. The younger or faster your metabolism is, quicker the pigment will leave you.
  • Skin care regimen. The frequent use of chemical peels, Retinols, AHA’s, BHA’S, microdermabrasion, etc., will accelerate the exfoliation of the skin, the cellular turnover and the fading the process.
  • Colour intensity. The darker the pigment, the longer it can last.
  • Aftercare. Following the aftercare advice will generate durable results.
  • Touch up. The touch is meant to extend the length of time your new eyebrows last, so skipping it will speed up the fading process.

What to expect for the healing process?

Day 1: It is normal to experience minimal swelling, redness and tenderness immediately following your procedure, this typically disappears within a few hours.

Days 2-4: Following your procedure the pigment will appear much darker, due to the scabbing process.

Days 5-7: The exfoliation begins. The small scabs flake off and your eyebrows may appear patchy for a few days, some parts of your new brows may even look like they’ve disappeared. Eyebrows might become itchy. Please don’t scratch!

Days 8-10: The area has completely peeled off, the brows may appear to have lost pigment in some spots.The colour has lightened and appears softer. Don’t worry, the colour will comeback.

Days 12-28: For the next few days, the color may be still lighter than the final color. At around the 28Th day, when the skin is completely healed, the pigments will finally stabilise to its final colour. However It can still looks a bit uneven.

Day 42: Skin is completely restored and ready for the final touch up. The touch up is important to make any necessary adjustments with the colour, and also the shape, if you want to go darker or bolder.

Why hyper realistic brows technique is better?

It can accommodate almost any skin type. Oily, dry, aging, mature etc.

But not only that, this technique is also far less traumatic to the skin. There is no cutting, there is no scaring. It is also more versatile. Those hair-strokes can be tattooed with a machine too and results are often more realistic than microblading. It does require a much higher skillset of the technician though and that is why you don’t it offered at most estheticians.

With the machine you can do powder brows, ombre brows, eyeliners, lips, beauty marks, medical micropigmentation of all sorts, scalp micropigmentation, etc…

Sounds good, right, but how does it work? The artist uses a digital, electronic tattoo pen that is specifically engineered for working on the delicate skin of the face. Instead of cuts, tiny little invisible holes are poked to your skin while the superfine needle implants the semi-permanent pigment into the appropriate layer of your skin. Not too deep, not too superficial. The machine controls the speed of the needle, the depth of the needle and the strength of the hit. Of course, there are manual elements to it too, the pen is in the hand of the artist after all and she needs to make the right judgment about its settings too. But she has so much more options to control her hand-piece and to adjust it to the needs of every client’s unique skin.

And since permanent makeup comes with a huge responsibility, I personally do prefer this much higher level of control.

Why not Microblading?

Your skin type has an important hole when it comes to permanent make-up, especially when using  microblanding technique. This technique is not suitable if you have oily and/or thin skin. Microbladed hair strokes will heal more powdery on oily skin as opposed to the dry skin type which will heal very crisp. And it will fade quickly, the touch up will usually be needed before 1 year. If you have hypersensitive skin, matured or generally very thin skin it will bleed easily and not retain colour, so it means after 1 week the hairstrokes will disappear.

And the other reason that I decided to stop working with Microblading it is because it can be very traumatic to the skin. We use a pencil looking tool that has a bundle of very thin needles on its end, super close to each other, forming a blade called microblade. And like blades are for cutting micro incisions. During the procedure your skin gets cut several times closely to each other following the pattern of hair strokes, with the blade regularly dipped into pigment. After these incisions are created some more pigment is rubbed into them. This is how the hair-strokes you love to see on those Instagram pictures are created. How does that sound?

And like any cuts, if goes a bit deeper, these can result in scaring, and the hairstrokes will heal blurred and with very cool and dark colour. And If it doesn’t go deep enough though, your brand-new eyebrows will disappear within a month or two. Neither results are what you have bargained for.

I personally do not like the idea of cutting the skin. It is unfriendly. Even traditional body tattoo practices have moved away from cutting the skin and switched to using tattoo machines.

Now don’t get me wrong, if you have the perfect skin you will get amazing healed results. The problem is, who doesn’t have a perfect skin? And this is where permanent makeup comes handy.

How to prepare for the appointment?

  • Do not work out the day before the procedure.
  • Do not tan or have a sun burned face, or you will be required to reschedule.
  • Do not take Aspirin, Niacin, Vitamin E, Fish Oil, or Ibuprofen 24 hours before the procedure.
  • No steroid shots 30 days before procedure.
  • No alcohol or caffeine the day of the procedure, this will minimize any oozing or swelling after the procedure.
  • No tweezing/waxing at least 48 hours before the procedure; electrolysis no less than 5 days before. Do not resume any method of hair removal for at least 2 weeks.
  • Eyebrow tinting should be done no sooner than 48 hours before, or 2 weeks after the procedure.
  • Avoid any anti-aging treatments, such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels, lasers or facials at least 2 weeks before your appointment.
  • No Botox 4 weeks before your procedure.
  • Please note that you will be more sensitive during your menstrual cycle.